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Where Eagles dare

1. Man with mountain bike in mountains with snow and blue sky.
2. Mountain bike passengers among snow-capped mountains and clear skies, an adventurous outdoor setting.

Often the images related to our sport tell of epic journeys, of wonderful places to ride endlessly on trails built by mother nature just for us bikers. Sometimes these places are in distant continents, exotic places that exist only in the images and thoughts of all of us. The reality, on the other hand, is that we live in the spot par excellence of every biker, we just often don't know. Today we will talk about one of these places. Let's go back to Valle d'Aosta, start from Chatillon and head towards the hill of Nanaz, 2770 meters, wedged between Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn. A long climb, which can be broken up with the help of the bus that loads the bikes and from the cable car that leads directly from Bousson to Chamois, a small town we have talked about several times. We decide to pedal to the start of the funicular, get help for this stretch and then leave again. Let's say that there is a nice difference in altitude in front of us, but the weather is splendid, the company excellent and therefore nothing can stop us.

We go up along the road that leads to Cervinia, between detours on paths and mountain villages we arrive at the departure of the cable car that will take us to about 1800 meters of the village of Chamois. 

Water to refresh yourself during a mountain bike excursion in a mountain landscape.
some fresh water in the square of Chamois

You go up, a short stop in the town square to fill your water bottle and fill up with sparkling air. The climb is long, steep sections alternate with short false floors, Lake Lot is crossed and continues to climb. Today the Matterhorn has decided to spite us, clear skies but the only cloud is right on the summit.

Mountain biker in the mountains with snowy alpine landscape and clear sky.
go up towards the hill of Nanaz
1. Man with mountain bike on snow, snowy mountain roads, outdoor adventure.
a cool? Portage

Continue the climb, the hill of Nanaz is hidden by spiers and other mountains, but it is there, at the top. I look at the altimeter and it indicates 2500 meters, it means that there are less than 300 meters to the summit, but the mountain must be taken with caution, in fact the difference in height can be collected all in a single stretch or spread on ups and downs and long plateaus.

the panorama is one of the important ones

In our case it is just like that, so you go up doing a bit of portage, then you go down, then you go flat and finally you go up. Finally at the top. The view is important, in front of us the glaciers of the Monte Rosa massif show themselves in their grandeur.

Even seen from a distance they always inspire a little awe, it will be the suggestion of the stories of the high mountains, or the silence that surrounds them, but time freezes in observing them. It is the wind that brings me back to normal, here it is really strong, but it is enough to move a few meters to be able to find shelter and thus eat a sandwich with bresaola. In the mountains everything has a different flavor, you will certainly have stopped in a refuge to eat bread and salami, it may be the effort, the altitude or I don't know what, but that sandwich has never been so tasty.

While we are recovering we observe the panorama, waiting for the clouds to move to be able to photograph the Rosa in its entirety, we chat about bikes, races and a bit of everything that passes through our mind. Sport is an excellent communication vehicle, it helps to overcome mistrust and barriers, not that with Fausto there is a need for it, but even when you are with strangers it often happens that you immediately create a good feeling, sharing a passion and an effort creates that useful empathy.

Well, after the philosophical moment it's time to leave again, a snowfield separates us from the descent, one step two steps, three steps and it sinks down to the knee. Thus I understand that we must proceed cautiously. The snow runs out, a very exposed stretch that recommends caution and bike by hand and then off we go, a descent on the ridge that cuts the whole mountain makes us descend fast and smiling, there is a refuge waiting for us at the end of this first touch, now closed but in July and August here polenta and fontina are never lacking.

From there the mountain in front of us, the one we have just descended, shows itself in all its majesty, when you are inside it you only see the path and the meters around you, but when you stop to look at it you realize how small and fragile you are in front of her. A moment of contemplation and off, the mountain path means broken rhythm, improvisation and a continuous search for the soft focus, find it, lose it and find it, a beautiful challenge that excites. Streams that brush against you and challenge you to increase your pace, alpine bridges, here is all the complete package you are looking for in the mountains, only the little goats that say hello to you are missing and then the picture would be perfect.

The downhill stretch is smoother, after this exciting single track you pass on the rue, constructions that the villagers built in the Middle Ages and beyond to bring the water of the glaciers down to the valley, well-maintained paths with a minimum and constant slope, tunnels made with effort and sacrifice, in this way we do at least thirty negative km until we return to Chatillon. A beautiful ride, 70 and more km, 2200 and more meters of positive and as many negative meters, two of the most important European massifs that act as strict guardians and hundreds of ideas, emotions and thoughts that the mountain helps to create. A tour to do with local guides, the detours are many, the possibility of getting lost is always lurking, so if you do not know the area well, rely on those who live here, you will have more fun and you will be able to get to know this part of Valle d'Aosta.

Excursion notes:

Distance 71 km

Difference in altitude 2200 mt

Cable car: timetables on the website of the as of Chamois

Coach: Chatillon

Bike rental: Rosas bike Saint Vincent

Tour information and guides: Saint Vincent tourist office



Written by

ppgad@pucrs.br Mountain bike travel editor and expert. Chiropractor and personal trainer, for years following some of the strongest national interpreters of enduro mtb.

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