There are valleys you traverse and others you experience. The Alta Val Formazza undoubtedly belongs to the latter category. Here, the mountains still retain an authentic character, where human presence blends with an environment shaped over millennia by water, ice, and wind. It's a land of vast pastures, rushing streams, alpine lakes, and postcard-perfect views. And it's precisely this setting that provided the backdrop for the Mingus group's latest outing, embarking on one of the most spectacular itineraries in the Piedmont Alps.
A valley where water is the protagonist
Our hike begins in Ponte, a small town that serves as the gateway to the upper valley. From the first few kilometers, the true dominant element of the Formazza is evident: water. Everywhere, streams, torrents, and waterfalls flow, fed by the glaciers that still exist on the surrounding peaks.
The first stop could only be the famous Toce Waterfall, one of Piedmont's most recognizable natural landmarks. With a drop of 143 meters, it is considered among the most spectacular in Europe. Its unique feature is that its flow is regulated by the Morasco Lake dam, and during the summer, the opening of the floodgates creates an impressive spectacle that has attracted thousands of visitors for over a century. It's no coincidence that Gabriele D'Annunzio called it "the most beautiful waterfall in the Alps."
The large dams that changed the valley
Continuing toward Riale, you enter the heart of the most authentic Formazza. Here, the mountains also reveal an important chapter in the history of Italian engineering. Much of the water from the glaciers is collected in large artificial reservoirs such as Lake Morasco and Lake Sabbione, built to generate hydroelectric power that still today represents a fundamental resource for Piedmont.
Despite the imposing nature of these infrastructures, the landscape retains a surprising balance. The artificial lakes now seem an integral part of the Alpine environment and contribute to making the panorama even more evocative.
Cycling towards the San Giacomo Pass
Leaving Riale behind, the climb becomes steeper, but every meter gained is rewarded with increasingly spectacular views. The destination is the Maria Luisa Refuge, from which you continue to the San Giacomo Pass, an ancient trade route that for centuries connected Italy and Switzerland.
Here, the altitude is well above 2.000 meters. The vast high-altitude meadows alternate with scree slopes, small lakes, and valleys that disappear towards the glaciers. It is a broad, luminous mountain, where the silence is broken only by the wind and the sound of cowbells from grazing cattle.
The fun continues on the Alta Formazza trails
After taking in so much beauty, it's time to have some fun in the saddle. The climb up towards Lake Kastel and the picturesque Boden Lakes takes us on a recently developed trail that has won over the entire group.
The route alternates flowing sections, natural curves, and a perfectly manageable surface. A truly "flow" trail, capable of providing fun without sacrificing total immersion in one of Piedmont's most captivating Alpine environments.
The Bettelmatt, Formazza's other treasure
Talking about the Formazza Valley inevitably means talking about Bettelmatt, one of Italy's most exclusive mountain cheeses.
It is produced only in a handful of mountain pastures located above 1.800 meters and only during the summer season. Its distinctiveness comes from the cows' diet, which graze freely, including mottolina, a wild grass that imparts its unmistakable aromas to the milk. The result is a cheese with an intense yet elegant flavor, highly sought after by enthusiasts and considered a true gem of Alpine gastronomy.
More than just an excursion
Like every Mingus group outing, this day wasn't just a ride. Between scenic stops, there were plenty of moments of relaxation, a few fishing rod casts, plenty of photos, and the inevitable laughs that make every outing special.
The classic third half in Riale concluded an intense day spent enjoying sport, friendship, and nature in the best possible way.
The Alta Val Formazza has once again confirmed its charm. It's a destination that satisfies those seeking spectacular mountain bike trails, but also those who want to experience the true essence of the mountains, amidst history, culture, and authentic flavors.
A place where every pedal stroke becomes a memory destined to last over time.
