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The taste boutiques around Lake Orta


The bike as a training tool, a means with which to maintain or regain good physical shape. Sport in general as an elixir of life, a natural opium that is addictive. Today, however, we want to take a journey into pleasure, a union between the devil and holy water. On the one hand the emblem of health, on the other hand the gluttony, the lust of a laden table, which in the common imagination is the antithesis of the healthy body. We will dispel this mistaken belief pedal stroke after pedal stroke. The bike will be our guide in search of the taste boutiques around Lake Orta.

The stars on the lake

It starts from Villa Crespi, the natural starting point for every lover of superfine tastes. The home of the starred chef Cannavacciuolo is a fairy tale turned into reality. A magical place where common ingredients are transformed into sublime dishes.  

the entrance to the prestigious star hotel,

From here the journey through dirt roads and roads takes us to Miasino, where one of the last butchers of the past resists, a simple place, where fillets, priest's hats and all the cuts capable of transforming a dinner into an ecstasy make a good presence. of flavors. Our journey continues towards Ameno, along paths that allow us to observe the surrounding nature with tranquility, the Rosa massif is always a distant spectator of our ride and the island the center of gravity of our journey.

the cycle path by the lake offers unique views

Before entering Gozzano, go down towards the lido, a long cycle path skirts the lake shores, takes us towards Venanzio and its window terrace on the island and then again towards Pella. Angles of absolute value, villas hidden by lush gardens show how the timeless charm of the lake is the ideal setting for the pursuit of elegance.

hidden glimpses
the square of Pella ... a lounge by the lake

Once in Pella, a stop at the Torre ice cream parlor is a must, a regional garrison of taste and quality, with its clean and tidy square it is the stage from which to observe Orta, its village, the monastery of Mount Mesma and the island, with the residences and the silence of the enclosure. Beauty is able to slow down the senses, restarting is difficult when the mind lets itself be captured by the romantic charm of this lake, but there are still many corners to discover, different producers of gastronomic dreams to be discovered.

We go up, a stretch of paved road takes us up to Mount San Giulio and from there we continue along an ancient mule track to Egro and Grassona, small enclaves where silence reigns and tranquility extended by the slow pace of the bike offers moments of great peace. We continue on paths once used as access routes, we reach Cesara and along old carriageways we arrive in the center of Nonio.

between the bottlenecks of Nonio
towards the lakes of Nonio

Here the tempting sirens would tell us to go up towards the lakes, where the chef Paolo could enchant us with carefully prepared dishes of the local cuisine, but our direction is another, so we try not to be distracted by the delicate calls and we head towards Omegna, not before having bought a bag of Nonio's scones from the local pastry shop, a sweet memory of this country.

The descent is fun and thrilling, the hiss of the wind as speed increases, the bike dancing on the downhill stones, a frenetic dance that when governed gives power and adrenaline, all this accompanies us to Omegna. An obligatory stop for those who love lust is the Zanardi pastry shop, a mecca for every sin of gluttony. Let go of all hope or you who enter, it seems they have written on their door.

in front of a pastry shop window you can't resist

In fact, every good resolution is just like that, every foil smashes against their window and the sweet perfumes enter from our nostrils to upset the senses of anyone who has the misfortune to approach. After having recovered from this journey we get on the two wheels again, to return to where it all began, fast paths accompany us to Pettenasco, for the last stage of this wandering among the flavors. Lomaglio and its Cusio cheese are a home where taste reigns supreme, cheeses with an articulated flavor, cured meats that delight every palate and a cellar that cannot be resisted are the three weapons with which it tempts us and wins us over. And finally it's back to where it all began. Back to villa crespi, richer in experience and aware that good food, refined products made by skilled and passionate hands are a viaticum for every worry. A tour of the atypical lake, made up of sensory experiences, tastes, aromas and flavors that are the quintessence of elegance and refinement. There are those who seek joy in artificial paradises or in the material pursuit, but life already gives us everything we need to be happy. It takes patience to search for these taste boutiques and the curiosity to look beyond a door or a sign to discover a new world. And now good appetite to all



Written by

[email protected] Mountain bike travel editor and expert. Chiropractor and personal trainer, for years following some of the strongest national interpreters of enduro mtb.

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