There are trails that offer pure enjoyment and others that tell the story of the mountain. Veia di ScuetarIn the heart of Antigorio Valley, belongs to both categories. An ancient connection used for centuries by shepherds and ranchers has now become one of the most iconic trails in the Ossola Valley, capable of captivating every mountain bike enthusiast.
Last Thursday, together with friends of the group Timeless, we set out to discover this itinerary which develops in the municipality of Baceno, between the hamlets of Agarù and Cravegna. A route that alternates challenging climbs, alpine villages, historic trails, and technical descents immersed in spectacular forests.
From Baceno to the Giants' Pots
Our excursion starts from BacenoAfter a short stretch on asphalt we reach the hamlet of Croveo, where a stop at the suggestive is a must Giants' pots, Also known as Devil's Mufflers.
These deep cavities in the rock have been shaped over millennia by the action of water and glaciers and represent one of the most interesting geological features of the Antigorio Valley. A stop worth visiting before starting the most challenging part of the tour.
The Curious Children's Train
Once back on the bikes, a pleasant path, already full of fun passages, leads to a truly special place: the Children's Train.
Thanks to the passion of a priest, several old train carriages have been restored and transformed into spaces for children and recreational activities. This unusual feature adds charm to an already historic itinerary.
The climb towards Esigo
From here, the climb changes pace significantly. Several kilometers of asphalt, often with steep gradients, test your legs and breathing, but allow you to gain altitude steadily.
We reach it like this I demandA small, perfectly preserved mountain village where time seems to have stood still. The ancient stone houses, slate roofs, and characteristic Baltic, carefully curated, tell the story of the Alpine culture of the Antigorio Valley.
A short break to recharge our batteries and we're ready to go again.
Finally the Veia of Scuetar
The road continues to climb towards Alpe Bondolero until, on the left, the long-awaited sign appears: “Veia di Scuetar”.
This is where the real show begins.
The asphalt gives way to an ancient path halfway up the hill, used for centuries as a link between Cravegna and the mountain pastures of the Bondolero Valley. Today, this historic route has been restored and enhanced, becoming one of the most popular trails in the entire Ossola Valley.
An authentic trail
From the first few metres you can perceive the character of the Veia di Scuetar.
The terrain is completely natural, alternating between ancient stone mule tracks, rocky outcrops, roots, compacted earth, and constant changes in pace. There are no artificial sections: here, the mountain dictates the rules.
Each step requires attention, precision driving and good technique, but the fun is guaranteed.
The trail passes through magnificent fir forests, where the silence is broken only by the sound of wheels on rocks and the scent of the undergrowth. It's precisely this perfect blend of nature, history, and technique that makes the Veia di Scuetar one of the iconic trails of the Antigorio Valley.
For those who love authentic mountain biking, this is one of those descents that absolutely deserves to be ridden at least once.
The fun continues
Once the Veia di Scuetar is finished, the tour is not over yet.
A second trail leads down the valley with a completely different character: the surface becomes smoother, the curves follow one another fluidly and the pace increases, offering a fast and very fun descent.
The only obstacle is crossing the Rio BondoleroHere, you'll need to get off your bike and carry it by hand to cross the stream. This short section also becomes a moment of collaboration between fellow riders, as often happens on the best mountain biking days.
Once you have crossed the stream, the route continues towards the hamlet of Graglia and from there it returns to Baceno, completing a truly complete itinerary.
Final houghts
La Veia di Scuetar is much more than just a trail.
It's a journey through the history of the Antigorio Valley, along ancient mule tracks that for centuries have connected people, pastures, and mountain pastures. A route that today offers one of the most complete experiences in the Ossola Valley, thanks to the perfect balance between technique, environment, and historical value.
This route is recommended for bikers with good technical preparation, capable of tackling natural passages, rocks, and roots without underestimating the terrain.
For us of the Timeless It was an intense day, full of hard work, fun, and lots of great mountain biking.
And, like any self-respecting outing, the ending could only be one: lunch at Croveo, over an excellent traditional dish accompanied by the inevitable beer. Because that's how the best trails are remembered.
