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In the kingdom of the Celts


the stone that marks the beginning of the descent

We have decided to discover a particular corner of upper Piedmont, a middle ground that rises from Lake Maggiore and extends towards Ossola and its high mountains. An evocative territory that over the millennia has been chosen by druids, shamans and priests as an area of ​​worship and with a mystical charm.

We have decided to reach Faiè, an unmistakable peak that acts as a natural balcony between Lake Mergozzo and Lake Maggiore, a gateway to the Val Grande, a natural park with a wild heart that is unique in Italy. Depending on the desire for fatigue, you can start pedaling directly from Fondotoce or opt for an easy start: alpe Ompio. Laziness invaded us and we opted for this second possibility.

have fun inside the beech forest

This tour can be seen as an approach to cycle mountaineering. There are all the ingredients needed for a real adventure, but in doses within the reach of many. There are just over 400 meters in altitude to overcome to reach the summit, we will find pedalable single tracks, more trialistic sections, moments where the 52 will be a precious ally and then the portage, cross of every biker, but often obligatory to reach the summit , admire the view and enjoy unique and unforgettable descents. Carrying 14 kg of bikes on the shoulders among stones and steep paths is objectively a penance, almost a way to atone for the lust that pervades us during the descent, a way to earn the emotions that some mountain trails offer, among panoramas, invented flou, rock garden and that improvisation that can only be found here.

Eventually you get to the top. The panorama is one of the important ones. We also had a bit of luck, starting on one of those days when it just stopped raining, the air still humid and the mist left by the water vapor that envelops everything giving an aura of mystery; then slowly the sky opens, the sun comes and then you realize what is around you, you understand why the populations who lived in these lands in the previous millennia have chosen this place as scarce ground. The hermit there is in you asks you in a loud voice not to go down again, but then the biker will win ...

The area is rich in historical traces, votive cups, a circle of stones that scholars date to more than 5000 years ago, and then chapels and signs of the passage of the man who found his corner of paradise here, one of those places to feel closer to the gods who have crossed our consciousness over the centuries. As always, after moments of ecstasy and moments of well-deserved relaxation comes magic moment, that moment for which it is worth working hard and sweating ... the sandwich with Nutella. The taste of bread and nutella is unique in the mountains, all foods are better in these places, the bread and salami of the refuge, polenta with braised meat and anything that is edible, after the effort of the ascent has a different flavor. It will be the tiredness, the adrenaline of the moment, the peace of mind or the fresher air; but eating the shares is an experience that must be savored with taste.

Okay, we joked a little bit, but only up to a point. We get ready for the descent, the real central moment of the day. Forget about words, this descent is fantastic, I will definitely come back other times, maybe going up from different places, but from here I have to go down again, again and again. It starts with a clean beech forest, with a terrain that seems to be laid, where the knobs cling and the bike remains there, not a skid or a hint of insecurity, counter-slope curves, lines that you have to decide at the moment and the fluidity that must be sought with constancy.

And then comes the steep, the real one, where the portage became more tiring on the outward journey. Roots, tight turns, nose press and that healthy dose of recklessness that is good for you every now and then, and that tells you to let go of the brakes, let go of the bike and see what happens. The lines are endless, here it is you who decide where to pass, hoping for a right trajectory, the essence of free ride, of free riding. Beautiful, beautiful and still beautiful. Let me be clear, as all descents of this kind must be appreciated with an adequate bike, but above all with good physical and technical skills, because you need to have experience, an eye in reading the terrain on the fly and perhaps to interpret and choose the lines already climbing, moreover the Faiè is also a destination for many hikers, so it is necessary to know how to control the bike also to reassure pedestrians, avoid running over them. If these peculiarities are missing, what could be an unforgettable day could turn into a bad experience. So beware of caution.

We leave this alpe with the awareness of having found a place to revisit, perhaps taking courage and starting from the plain below, because in this way the descent doubles as well, but we will see, for now we say goodbye to the Faiè, the druids, the roots and all that we met in this little bike riding adventure

Info:

Location: monte faiè, alpe Ompio. Piedmont, Province of Verbania

For contacts: www.tagliaferri-mtbtraveler.com

Photographer: Boriolo Gianni



Written by

[email protected] Mountain bike travel editor and expert. Chiropractor and personal trainer, for years following some of the strongest national interpreters of enduro mtb.

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