Better to be safe than sorry: this saying will always be current, especially in the e-bike world where you often don't have the technical knowledge to better manage electronic components. Many components of an e-bike correspond to those of a traditional bike, but wear occurs more markedly (thanks to the greater weight) but also due to the addition of many technological components.
HOW LONG DOES AN E-BIKE BATTERY LAST
The life of a battery in an e-bike, a problem that for most users does not exist (if we use brands and brands that are not of dubious origin. Electric bicycles are equipped with lithium-ion batteries and, according to the manufacturers, there is talk of an average decline of 5% per year with a noticeable deterioration (around 50%) between 500 and 1000 complete charging cycles. A mileage estimate means between 20.000km and 30.000km. The range is so high because it depends a lot on the conditions in which the battery is held (and used): a battery used in Turbo mode deteriorates much sooner than a battery used in Eco. This should make you understand that the batteries, if they have no problems and are well maintained, have a very long life and let's go back to my first statement, namely “The life of a battery in an e-bike, a problem that doesn't exist”.

Why am I saying this? Let's assume that you do 2 laps a week in which you consume 50% of the battery and recharge as soon as the lap is finished. So the full charging cycles are 1 per week. In a year there are 52 weeks and therefore this means that in 5 years you will recharge your e-bike 260 times. In a society like the current one, you will change 4 bikes before changing a battery because it is exhausted 🙂 Then if we go to evaluate the fact of a user who only goes out on Sunday we understand that it is a non-existent problem or, to be precise, non-existent if you use brands established and not drums of dubious origin.
To understand how much a battery is “worn out”, especially on used bikes, contact the shopkeepers equipped with diagnostic tools for the specific brand of battery that we want to analyze.
HOW TO CHARGE THE BATTERY OF AN E-BIKE
Always recharging the battery of an e-bike at the end of the lap does no harm: lithium batteries do not suffer from the memory effect, and it is therefore not necessary to wait until they are almost completely discharged to recharge them. Indeed, using them with little charge stresses them more.
Before charging the bike, gradually bring the battery (without using external heat sources) the temperature to around 20 degrees: useful advice in case of laps with extreme temperatures.
Using FAST Charger type battery chargers will not damage the battery. Smaller chargers (which consequently recharge more slowly) have the only advantage of occupying less space in the backpack: they do not preserve the battery more than a traditional battery charger.
BATTERY STORAGE
You have to protect the battery from the cold: it is not advisable to leave the bike in the cold for a long time (cold means below 10 ° and in very humid places). The ideal temperature is between 10 ° and 20 ° in dry places.
It is not necessary to disassemble the battery during the downtime. Provided that the conditions / temperatures are not ideal (see above). If it is not possible to detach it and put it in a dry / warmer place, you can protect it by wrapping the down tube with a blanket or, in case of humidity, even with nylon. There are special neoprene covers on the market.
Be careful not to keep the bike stationary for a long time with a low battery: this is a mistake to be avoided absolutely. The ideal would be to store the bike “in a standstill” with the battery charged to 50/70% and check the condition at least once every 2 months, because a slight self-discharge is normal.
BASIC E-BIKE MAINTENANCE
If your bike has to stand still for a long time, the first step is to clean it thoroughly: as well as a matter of style, also to avoid finding a concert of new noises once you pick it up again. Use specific products: brake cleaner, electrical contact cleaner, suspension protector and, finally, chain oil (after having carefully cleaned it with a degreaser). Don't oil your brake discs if you don't want to make a good straight out of the garage as soon as you pick up the bike!
Inflate the tires well to avoid unpleasant surprises: it is not recommended to leave pitted tires for a long time since their shape would be compromised. If the tires are tubeless, it is recommended to convert them into an inner tube, or it is a good idea to turn the wheels from time to time to keep the latex moving and prevent it from drying out.
Optional tip, high dropper post, open suspension locks (in case of remote control) and longer ratio, so that everything doesn't work in traction. In the case of a Shimano gearbox, set the clutch to OFF.
